The Bike

Here it is, all decked out for a ride across the Himalaya:


The story of ... "the bike" ...

For the Himalaya, the preferred ride is one that is robust and easily repairable. Although I've got two other mountain bikes, the fact that both of them are alumnimum frame (can't be welded in the field), have hydraulic disk brakes (I have no idea how to repair those!) and shocks (something else to go wrong) meant that they weren't quite appropriate for a trip like this.

The other significant factor is, well, that I didn't want to risk losing one of my nice bikes over in India!

So, I was going to use my old 1992 Scott Mountain bike that I'd bought in Germany and cycled up the Karakoram Highway, but sadly it was stolen from a friend of mine. Thus began the hunt for an appropriate bike.

A few weeks of lurking on Craigslist and trying a few bikes, and I finally found something close to what I was looking for - a ~1995 steel frame Kona Hahanna. Decent bike, but needed some tweaks to it. Over the next month, I:

• Replaced the head stem to raise the handlebars and bring them a bit closer;
• Replaced the rear gear cluster - finding a 32-tooth 7 gear cluster was a bit of a challenge, but found one at the Bike Doctor
• Replaced the chain
• Replaced the front large chain ring
• Replaced all the cables
• Replaced the brake pads (probably good to have decent brakes in the Himalaya)
• Replaced one of the shifters, fixed up the other one (multiple visits to Our Community Bikes to find the right bits)
• Put on 3 water bottle cages
• Put on rear carrier (original from the Pakistan trip, so should be solid) - required just a little grinding to make it fit
• After much turmoil, got an expensive Tubus front rack, and figured out a hopefully strong way of mounting it on the front fork
• Swapped out the single wall wheels with the double wall wheels from Killaine's old mountain bike (Thanks, Pumpkin!)
• Put on some fancy Schwalbe Marathon Tour Plus tires. Much gnashing of teeth trying to decide between 2.0s and 1.75s. Went for the 1.75s in the end.
• Bar ends, of course
• Mounted the speedometer
• And, finally, swapped the seat with the comfy one from one of my other bikes.
  

Phew, that's it. Hopefully it'll hold together! It's all packed and in it's box downstairs. Copious amounts of foam & bubble wrap will also hopefully protect it on the long flight and bus ride from Vancouver to Shimla, via Toronto, Brussels & Delhi!

Weather in India

Some details on weather along my cycling route:

• Shimla (~2100m - start)
• Rampur (~800m - day 2)
• Leh (~3500m - end)

Shimla & Rampur should be cloudy with thunderstorms - considering that they get the monsoon there (which is still going on when I start). Rampur will be hot, being at a low elevation.

Leh is surprisingly warm right now, but getting cold at night already! It's going to be chilly when I get there at the end of September.

Shimla to Leh

Here's a bit of an update on a trip I'm planning this September!

The Concept

I'm planning on doing a bit of cycling in India this fall - from Shimla on the south side of the Himalayas, across to Leh in Ladakh, on the north side of the Himalayas, essentially in the Indian part of geographic Tibet.

Why

Ever since I pulled out of the Bugaboos to Roger's Pass traverse trip, I've been looking for another trip to do. I tossed around possibilities of kayaking up the sunshine coast, and various hiking alternatives, before my mind migrated to India. I pulled out the trekking in India Lonely Planet guide and started thinking about doing some hiking over there.

But, the more I read, I slowly started learning about the trans-himalayan valley of Spiti (trans-himalayan essentially meaning in the middle of the Himalaya). Then, I learned that there is a road through there that hooks up with the Manali to Leh highway. Then I read that people have done cycle tours through there.

So, I thought it might be a fun idea to link up a bike route through Spiti with the Manali-Leh highway - a route of about 1000km across the Himalaya.

The Plan

Here's a google maps view of the route:


View Shimla to Leh Cycling Route in a larger map

I'll start by flying out from Vancouver to Delhi via Toronto & Brussels. One night in Delhi, then a 9 (or more) hour bus ride to Shimla.

From Shimla, I'll start to cycle. The route first heads east, following the Sutlej river, and slowly climbs in altitude until it crosses through into the Spiti valley. From there, the route continues through Buddhist villages and climbs up the Kunzum La at ~4500m, the first major pass on the route. It then descends down (what sounds like) a pretty rough road, eventually meeting the Manali-Leh highway. This first part should take around 10 days to 2 weeks.

Then, the fun starts on the Manali-Leh highway. There's 4 major passes to cross - the Baralacha La at 4918m, the Nakeela La at 4937m, Lachulung La at 5077m, and finally the Taglang La at 5300m. Pretty high cycling. The area between the Lachulung La and the Taglang La should be very cool - the terrain is actually geographically part of the massive Changtang - the high plateau of Tibet.

Finally, I'll end up in Leh - the capital city of the region.

As I mentioned, it's about 1000km, and I'll have 25 days of cycling. Hopefully I'll average ~50km/day with a rest day every 5 days.

When To Go?

Figuring out when to do this trip was a challenge! There's two opposing weather forces - the monsoon - lasting through to "the beginning of September", and the winter snows, which generally don't come until later in October, but have been known to come as early as early to mid-September.

After much consideration and consulatation on the Internet, I figured that it would likely be better to brave the rain rather than snow, so I'll start at the end of August and go 'til the end of September.

The Bike

I was expecting that I'd just take the same bike that I cycled the Karakoram Highway on back in 1998. Unfortunately, it was on extended loan to a friend, and it was stolen from him. So, I first had to find an appropriate bike!

For a trip like this, the ideal bike has:

• a steel frame (more resilient than aluminum);
• a rigid front fork (less maintenance than a shock);
• cable-actuated brakes (which I can fix on the road - unlike hydraulic brakes);
• decent components.

After a few weeks of lurking on Craigslist, I eventually found close-to the right bike - a Kona Hahanna. Then, after a fair amount of work, I replaced the drivetrain, replaced the wheels with wheels from Killaine's old bike (much stronger), replaced the stem to make it fit better, worked on the gearing, adjusted the brakes, put on my water bottle carriers and racks and, to top it all off, put on some new Schwalbe Marathon Tour Plus tires.

Alternative Plans

Travelling in India is never straightforward nor easy, and sticking to a pre-determined plan can be challenging! The weather could slow me down, or I might just find that my plan is overly-ambitious. I might decide to dawdle along the first half of the route slowly and enjoy the area, or it could be that I'll be delayed starting and might have to be happy just doing the Manali to Leh portion.

Or, I could have a catastrophic bike failure (or lose it!), and have to revert just to having a bus-borne holiday interspersed with some trekking. That's India!

Squamish Mountain Biking with Trevor

My good buddy Trevor, from Calgary, was here visiting for a weekend.

On Saturday, we went up to Squamish and did a fairly epic ride - kind of the first half of the test of metal course, followed by a connection over to the crumpit woods area and a good ride around there, before finally cycling back through the smoke bluffs and back to the Squamish Highlands area (where we parked).

Trevor shot some video of our day ... I've youtubed it, and here it is:

Critical Mass

I had a bit of extra time while here in Red Deer, so I've finished compiling & editing the short videos that I shot on the Critical Mass bike ride. Below is the video, and you can read the original story here. If the video doesn't play below, you can view it on the YouTube website .

Long Weekend With Gord

In advance of spending a couple of weeks in Red Deer to help my Mum recuperate from her (upcoming) hip surgery, I flew in early to Calgary and spent the long weekend with Gord.

We had a busy weekend - I caught up with Jenny & Gord Friday night. Saturday morning, Gord took Jenny off to the airport (off to Ontario to spend a week with her Mum). Gord and I then drove out into the Kananaskis area and cycled the Elbow Loop. It was a great ride, about 45km long with ~900m of climbing, along mostly old fire access roads - up along the Elbow River, then over a pass of about 2200m, then back along the Little Elbow River. Great ride, great scenery, and only one flat tire.

That night, we ate T-bone steaks and watched the movie "300" (suitably violent).

Sunday morning, we woke up at 5:00am, and drove out to Banff. Our objective was a mountaineering hike from Morraine Lake (near Lake Louise) and over a couple of high passes to the Lake O'Hara area. It was a fantastic hike - definitely a top one-day hike in the Rockies.

We started up the Larch Valley trail from Morraine Lake, hooking up (briefly) with a group of 6 senior citizens 'cause we were supposed to be in a party of no fewer than 4 (a regulation for the area requiring, I guess, large groups that make lots of noise to scare off the resident grizzly(s)). Of course, the seniors were too slow for us, so we took off, and made enough noise by ourselves. The hike up to Wenkchemna Pass was a spectacular, easy trail up through the alpine. From the pass, a tedious scramble down on loose scree brought us into the "Eagle Eyrie" - a wonderful high alpine valley. We headed north up the valley and up to the glacier below Opabin Pass - a very small glacier which we nonetheless roped up for and put on our crampons for the (somewhat steeper) climb up to the pass. On the climb up to the pass, Gord noticed footprints from a Grizzly heading straight up the pass (then down the other side)!

From the pass, we headed down some steeper snow, then onto the (rapidly shrinking) Opabin Glacier. We crossed it easily (a rope definitely being necessary). On the glacier, and just below it, we found some glaciology recording equipment, placed there by Shawn Marshall of the University of Calgary. Once off the glacier, we unroped, then hiked across the scree to Opabin Lake. From there, we hooked onto the great trails surrounding Lake O'Hara, and decided to finish off with the spectacular Yukness Ledges Alpine Route to Lake Oesa - great views along a really cool trail. We had a good view up to the north/east face of Mount Lefroy - there was no snow on the face - usually, there should be solid snow/ice on the face - another sign of warming temperatures. Finally, down to Lake O'Hara, and from there, the bus ride out to the parking lot (where we had left one of the cars). Supper at Boston Pizza, finally getting back to Calgary at around 11:00pm.

We were pretty tired the next day, but nonetheless got up, had a big breakfast of Eggs Benedict at Ricky's, then rented a canoe from the Calgary Campus Outdoor Center, and paddled down the Bow River from the Ghost Dam down to Cochrane. That was alot of fun - I was totally new to the river paddling experience, so had a bit of trepidation. But, got used to it quickly, and we managed to stay upright the entire paddle, with one "near flip" as we incorrectly negotiated an entry into an eddy. We took a break at that point - Gord breaking out his fly fishing rod to (unsuccessfully) hunt for trout.

We finished up, and Gord grabbed a ride back to the Ghost Dam (after I had inadvertently left the keys for Jenny's car in Gord's car!). Back to Calgary, drop off the canoe, then a supper of barbecued pork loin, beer, followed by "Thunderball" (an old James Bond movie from 1965!).

Great weekend!

Critical Mass!

As planned, Killaine & I went in the ¨Critical Mass¨ ride last night. It was a really cool experience in ¨randomly organized¨ group culture and a ton of fun.

The evening started off with cyclists gathering in front of the Art Gallery in downtown Vancouver:

At a little after 6:00pm, the group slowly coalesced and started moving out ... the crowd was pretty huge - I can´t estimate how many cyclists there were (I´ll have to read the paper tomorrow - but 2,000ish would be a good estimate) - if you take a look at this picture, you can see the huge line of cyclists going off down Howe Street:
From Howe, it was up onto the Granville Bridge - for the first of several ¨bridge celebrations¨. Note that the entire route is completely dictated by the group - no pre-planned route, and no planning with any authorities. Complete randomness! Certainly, this caused huge traffic tie ups throughout downtown - all to celebrate the bicycle, and to experience the freedom of cycling without worrying about traffic.
These folks are ¨corkers¨ - meaning, folks that block vehicles to let the other cyclists past safely. Note that the lead vehicle being ¨corked¨ here is a hummer!
Then ... over the Georgia Viaduct - note the big crowd behind ...
... and ahead:


Then, along and over to the Lions Gate Bridge for another Bridge Party. There were lots of eclectic folk there, and lots of neat bikes - from beaters to the latest full suspension jobs, and even some penny farthings (!) and unicycles!

Finally, we headed back into downtown around Stanley Park (by this time, the police had caught up with the group, and diverted us into the park). Still, another bridge celebration on Burrard - we eventually left the ride at around 8:30pm to cycle home.

All in all, it was a ton of fun - lots of happy cycling people, lots of community, and just a real fun feeling that we were demonstrating how cyclists are an integral part of the transportation options within Vancouver.

Critical Mass Bike Ride Friday Evening

After having lived in Vancouver for > 8 years, and always having the "last friday of the month" critical mass bike ride in my calendar, I'm finally going to do it tomorrow evening.

Dynamic Critical Mass Vancouver: June29 Critical Massive!

According to an article in today's Vancouver Sun, over 2000 riders are expected this year.