When I plan for a trip, I tend to do a meticulous amount of research about the route (just ask Killaine) - stuff like the terrain, the climbs, the state of the road - all that kind of stuff. I even chatted with a few folks via the Lonely Planet and India Mike websites. However, none of the information I had gathered even hinted at the possibility that I'd be cycling through about 30km of a hydroelectric mega-project ...
The day started off great - I got an early start from Sarahan, and enjoyed the fully in-control cycle back down into the valley back to Jeori. Past hotel hell, then back along the road, following again the Sutlej river upstream. The road continued to be spectacular - blasted into the side of sheer cliffs, hundreds of metres above the Sutlej. Fantastic views, great cycling.
I came upon a couple of tragic accidents in short order, however. The first was a head-on between a bus & a truck - I'd heard about this one the day before from some German folks (who past it on a different bus). Not pretty. Shortly afterwards, while cycling along another sheer section, a truckload of police drove up, stopped, and looked over the edge. I stopped and asked them what they were looking at - apparently a truck went off the road the night before (which explained the broken railing). I asked how many were killed - they didn't know yet. I have no idea how they'd get down to the river to recover the bodies - it was a long way down.
Continuing on, the road dropped right down to the river, and deteriorated as I entered some kind of construction zone. Little did I know that this was the start of a new Sutlej river hydroelectricity mega-project. In some senses, cycling through a third-world project of that nature was certainly eye-opening. People crushing rocks (by hand - with hammers) on the side of the road, armies of people digging roads - and many camps where the workers lived in very desperate conditions. Dams under construction, massive tunnels being built into the mountainside for diverting the river flow - fascinating stuff, from an engineering perspective. From a cycling perspective, however, it was 30km of unpaved, rocky & muddy road. At one point I said to myself, "at least it's not raining" ... it started to rain a short time later.
Anyway, exhausting work. Finally reached paved road eventually, and took shelter in a police checkpoint hut (folks are very friendly - did I mention that before?). Continued on to the turn-off to Recong Peo, and then just another 300m of climbing and I pulled in at about 4:30pm - after having started cycling at 6:30am. 92km and 1300m of climbing altogether.
Got the "best room" at the Rindang Hotel, overlooking the busy bazaar. Noisy, but spent a fascinating hour or more just watching the folks going about their business. Really cool just to watch - things slowly start to reveal themselves - the cows wandering the streets do get fed by the vegetable vendors as they sort out the less good produce. The porters ready at a moments notice to unload vehicles. All sorts of folks - tough to describe the whole thing.
After such an exhausting day yesterday, I took a rest day today. I also had to get an "inner line permit" (i.e. permission to cycle close to the border with Tibet) - it was easy to get, but a good excuse to take the day off. Went to the Aru car wash and mechanic to wash the layers of mud off my bike, but in true Indian fashion, a fellow washed my bike up for me - making it cleaner than when I left Canada! A bit of oil on the chain, and good to go.
BTW, also super impressed that my fancy tires & Killaine's wheels held up to the rigours of yesterday.
Onwards tomorrow to the village of "Pooh", then up to Nako at 3600m and then finally the descent into trans-himalayan valley of Spiti. Not sure when the next Internet access thingy will be.
Summary of the trip to date ... fascinating & challenging!
The day started off great - I got an early start from Sarahan, and enjoyed the fully in-control cycle back down into the valley back to Jeori. Past hotel hell, then back along the road, following again the Sutlej river upstream. The road continued to be spectacular - blasted into the side of sheer cliffs, hundreds of metres above the Sutlej. Fantastic views, great cycling.
I came upon a couple of tragic accidents in short order, however. The first was a head-on between a bus & a truck - I'd heard about this one the day before from some German folks (who past it on a different bus). Not pretty. Shortly afterwards, while cycling along another sheer section, a truckload of police drove up, stopped, and looked over the edge. I stopped and asked them what they were looking at - apparently a truck went off the road the night before (which explained the broken railing). I asked how many were killed - they didn't know yet. I have no idea how they'd get down to the river to recover the bodies - it was a long way down.
Continuing on, the road dropped right down to the river, and deteriorated as I entered some kind of construction zone. Little did I know that this was the start of a new Sutlej river hydroelectricity mega-project. In some senses, cycling through a third-world project of that nature was certainly eye-opening. People crushing rocks (by hand - with hammers) on the side of the road, armies of people digging roads - and many camps where the workers lived in very desperate conditions. Dams under construction, massive tunnels being built into the mountainside for diverting the river flow - fascinating stuff, from an engineering perspective. From a cycling perspective, however, it was 30km of unpaved, rocky & muddy road. At one point I said to myself, "at least it's not raining" ... it started to rain a short time later.
Anyway, exhausting work. Finally reached paved road eventually, and took shelter in a police checkpoint hut (folks are very friendly - did I mention that before?). Continued on to the turn-off to Recong Peo, and then just another 300m of climbing and I pulled in at about 4:30pm - after having started cycling at 6:30am. 92km and 1300m of climbing altogether.
Got the "best room" at the Rindang Hotel, overlooking the busy bazaar. Noisy, but spent a fascinating hour or more just watching the folks going about their business. Really cool just to watch - things slowly start to reveal themselves - the cows wandering the streets do get fed by the vegetable vendors as they sort out the less good produce. The porters ready at a moments notice to unload vehicles. All sorts of folks - tough to describe the whole thing.
After such an exhausting day yesterday, I took a rest day today. I also had to get an "inner line permit" (i.e. permission to cycle close to the border with Tibet) - it was easy to get, but a good excuse to take the day off. Went to the Aru car wash and mechanic to wash the layers of mud off my bike, but in true Indian fashion, a fellow washed my bike up for me - making it cleaner than when I left Canada! A bit of oil on the chain, and good to go.
BTW, also super impressed that my fancy tires & Killaine's wheels held up to the rigours of yesterday.
Onwards tomorrow to the village of "Pooh", then up to Nako at 3600m and then finally the descent into trans-himalayan valley of Spiti. Not sure when the next Internet access thingy will be.
Summary of the trip to date ... fascinating & challenging!
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2 comments:
Guy,
Great trip reports! Keep sending out the inspiration!!
Cheers,
Nick
Hi Guy
Just keep spinning!
Snow and Hail at Maligne Pass this long weekend. Just in case you think it's to hot.
Gord
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